How to Manage a Model Photoshoot

Working with models is exciting, dynamic and of course, a lot of fun! This page will help you to get the best from your photo shoot, whether your model is professional, amateur, or the girl next door!

Portrait photography is a huge topic and couldn't possibly be covered in one hub, but I hope that I can get you started here.

My model was Irena and this was her first ever professional photo shoot. We had a fantastic time and shall be working together again in the future... so watch out for more!

Step One - Planning

First of all, you need an idea. What kind of model shoot would you like to do? Fashion, glamour, male or female, single models, two models, indoors, outdoors... you get the idea! Maybe you've seen images from other photographers and you'd like to try a similar shoot. Or maybe you've got a model in mind and you know the perfect location to photograph them but don't know how best to do it. You must have an idea of what you would like to do before you approach a potential model. Think it through and get the ideas bright in your head before you go any further.

Secondly, you need a model. If you can't afford to book one through a model agency, and you don't want to risk a slap to the face by approaching someone in the supermarket, try asking someone in the family, or friends. Be professional about it, even if you've never done it before. The last thing any potential model needs to feel is that you are going to be sleazy or disrespectful to her / him.

I found Irena through an advert she'd placed on Gumtree looking for photographers. Other models have approached me because they have seen my work, or I have been brave and approached them! It certainly helps to look professional and to gain their trust by being confident yourself. If you don't have a website or a portfolio because you've never done a model shoot before, you really shouldn't be approaching strangers. Make use of family, friends, colleagues, anyone who knows you personally and trusts you.

Step Two - The Consultation

Having worked on an idea and having found a willing model, you need to meet up and discuss your ideas properly. Your idea of getting a model to cover herself in flowers 'American Beauty' style will all fall to pieces if you haven't told her about it and she then tells you that she has allergies to roses just as you are about to start throwing them on her!

Let your model know your plans beforehand, and give them the opportunity to bring their own ideas to the table. Work together and you will create something special together. Always respect the wishes of your model. If they are unwilling to try something, never try to persuade them. Not only is it disrespectful, but also they will feel uncomfortable and their poses will be stiff, unnatural and unattractive. No matter how much they smile, it will be obvious that they are not happy and your photographs will have failed. You will also probably never see that model again and you run the risk that they will tell their friends to avoid you! Always respect your models and always work with them, never against them.

Give them a model release form to take away and read properly. If you want to use someone's photograph for your own website, advertising, stock, whatever, you must have their written consent. If your model is a child, you must have their parents / legal guardian's written consent. There is no set way to prepare a model release form, but make sure that it covers everything and also has the option for the model to tick and sign a refusal of permission if they wish. It is their right to choose what you do with their image and you must always respect that.

Step Three - Preparing the Shoot

Make sure everything is ready ahead of the shoot. Check that all your batteries are charged, your lenses are clean, your equipment is together and everything works. Get a spare camera if you can, even if you have to borrow one. If your camera packs up on the shoot, you won't get flustered if you have a back up. Have a back up plan for all your kit. If you are planning an outdoor shoot, have a back up plan for if it is raining! Especially if you live in the UK!!

The day before the shoot, check with your model that all is still well with them and that they can still make it.

Step Four - Location

Always aim to arrive before your model if you can. Get a good look around the location and see where the light is falling, where it is coming from and how strong or diffuse it is. Diffuse light is soft light. Natural diffuse light would be light through a net curtain at a window, or outdoors, where a fine layer of cloud is across the sun.

Plan where you are going to shoot, and if you are using artificial light such as flash, where and how will you set it up.

Step Five - Lights

This is where an assistant will come in handy. By the way, if you are using an assistant (and I strongly recommend it) make sure your model knows about it and has agreed to it.

If you are using natural light, either outdoors or through a window, have your assistant sit, lie, stand, whatever, where you would like your model to be. Look through the camera viewfinder and see where the light falls and where the shadows fall. Are there strong shadows and do you want to make use of them to help sculpt the body with the light? Just make sure there are no harsh shadows where you don't want them. You may need to use fill flash, especially if the sun is strong.

Wondering about fill flash? It's just what it says it is... the use of flash to fill in harsh shadows, and to balance the image where there is a lot of contrast between the dark light in front of your model and the strong light behind them. Fill flash can be a subject all on its own, so I will cover that in another hub. For now, know that it is useful and see how it can help. If your flash is too strong and is creating harsh light and shadows on your model, you can always use a reflector to bounce light back into the shot instead. More on that below.

If you are using artificial light, you need to work out where your lights need to be positioned and how strong they need to be to get the effects you want. Again, if you have an assistant you can get this prepared before your model turns up so that they don't get bored (or cold!)while you are fiddling around with your lights.

You can use as many lights or as few lights as your idea demands. This is trial and error and not something I can say... oh, you MUST have three strobes (flash), or you MUST have tungsten, or you MUST have... whatever.

If you are just starting out, keep it simple. Natural light is your friend. It's cheap, available, and the bulb won't blow!

Whatever light you use, just spend a little time looking at it and how you can use it to bring out the effects that you want. Use the shadows, use the light, use imagination.

Be flexible in your ideas so that you can change as the light changes. Sunlight takes on a totally different quality at different times of the day. Observe it and see how you can use it.

Reflectors are great bits of kit to bounce some light back into the shot where your flash can't reach, or where you aren't using any flash. You can buy professional reflectors, or you can make your own and they are just as effective in many situations. A white sheet, or silver foil, or a white polystyrene sheet, all work well. Equally, if you want to stop light bouncing back in, say from a wall or whatever, you can use a black screen in exactly the same way. Just be sure that your reflector is just out of shot. Look carefully all around the viewfinder when lining up your shot... don't just look at the model.

Step Six - Camera

Ideally you need a camera that will allow you to adjust exposure, shutter speed and iso. These are topics for separate hubs so I won't go into that here, but if you have manual control over your camera settings, then you will certainly get a much more professional looking shot.

I use a Nikon system, but Canon, Pentax, Sony and all the big camera manufacturers will have great systems that suit your needs. It's personal preference about what feels good in your hands... where the dials and buttons are in relation to your finger spread, that sort of thing. I use the Nikon D300 and it is perfect for me. I have quite small hands and everything is where I need it, but of course your needs may be different!

Be aware that if you are using natural light, you may need a tripod. For the shot of Irena on the sofa, I used light from the window but it was an overcast day so not especially bright. The shutter speed was therefore quite slow to get the correct exposure and, if I wasn't using my VR (vibration reduction) lens, a tripod would have been necessary.

Your flash synch speed is important to know if you are using studio flash lighting. If you set the shutter speed too high (usually anything over 1/250 second) then you may end up with a photo of your own shutter curtain! I've done just that to show you what it will look like... don't worry, your camera isn't broken! All you need to do is drop the shutter speed so that it is in synch with the flash. Your camera manual will tell you what the maximum flash synch speed is for your camera. It's something to be aware of and something that could give you a fright if you've never seen your shutter curtains before!!

Getting the correct exposure (making sure your model is correctly lit, i.e. not too bright, not too dark) is easy with modern cameras as their built-in metering systems are pretty accurate.

If you have a modern digital camera, look in the manual to see if you can display the exposure histogram on the LCD. This is a very useful device that lets you know when the exposure is correct. If the curve is pushed down to the left, your image will be too dark. If it is all across to the right, your image is too bright. You can then adjust your camera settings until the exposure is correct. Again, that is too big a subject for an already long hub, so I'll cover it in a separate one.

If you don't have a camera with a histogram or an efficient built-in meter, or if you want the most accurate exposure information, there are plenty of hand-held light meters available that you might be able to pick up for a reasonable price on Ebay. Look for manufacturers such as Sekonic or Gossen for decent digital light meters. They will be better than any camera meter in difficult conditions, and can actually save you time if you are using studio lighting.

If you are using a film camera it is often advisable to use a polaroid camera to check your settings... waiting for the film to be developed just to find you've under- or over-exposed all your shots would be a nightmare! Checking exposures on an instant polaroid first will help avoid any disappointment.

Step Seven - Action

So, you've checked out the light, got the camera set ready for the correct exposure, your model has turned up and looks fantastic... all systems go!

Be calm and professional and take charge of the shoot. Direct the model into the poses you'd discussed at the planning stage, and let them know how they are doing. If you have a digital camera, show them the images on the LCD. If you are using film, show them the polaroids.

Be flexible in your plans. If the lighting changes for whatever reason, you must be prepared to change with it and use it to your advantage.

Communicate with your model, encourage them and watch them relax and enjoy your shoot. It doesn't get much more satisfying than that! There's nothing better than seeing someone feeling great about themselves and seeing their confidence grow in front of your camera.

I believe that everyone, and I do mean everyone, has something beautiful that can be brought out if only you can help them show it. And it really doesn't have to be sleazy. Trust and respect are your biggest allies. Never abuse them.

Let your model have a rest between poses if they need to and make sure there is at least a bottle of water for them. It's hard work holding those poses for you!

Step Eight - It's a Wrap

When you feel you have all the shots you want, it's time to finish the shoot. Anyone who has ever modelled before will know that it is actually very hard work. You wouldn't believe how many different muscles are used to hold those poses unless you'd tried it yourself!

Look after your model. If they are too tired to do any more, it's time to finish.

Thank your model and make sure that you get the signed model release. If the model has signed the release to say they do not agree to you using their images, respect that. It is their choice. The vast majority of people will be happy for you to show off their photos, so if a few say no, what does it matter? Be professional, be respectful.

I hope this helps you. Look out for more hubs explaining exposure, fill flash, histograms and all the other details as I'll be publishing them very soon!

Thanks for stopping by. If you have any questions please feel free to ask and I'll do my best to help.

Aunty.